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Hooked on a feeling
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a night, teach
a man to fish and he will eat for a life time.
Why is it that ten percent of fishermen catch ninety
percent of the fish ?
Is there something, that somebody forgot to tell the
rest of us ?
Well here is a run down that will help you
understand what separates the Danglers from the Anglers.
Knowledge is power, and fishing is no exception.
Understanding your equipment is a key to your fishing success.
Cut back to the basics, fishing is a line, a hook
and hopefully a fish attached. Walk into a tackle shop today and you
see Lures, hooks, reels, lines, sinkers, swivels, soft plastics,
burleys, baits, nets and gaffs, it’s a daunting place, so where do you
start ?
This guide will explain these items and when to use
them, hopefully giving you better fishing results and maximising your
time on the water.
Hooks
These are important as these connect the fish to
your line. Bad or incorrect hooks are the reason that many anglers
don’t land their fish of a lifetime.
A hook is simply a piece of wire. So how is one
piece of wire different from another?
Years ago strong hooks had to large barbs and blunt
points, it was very common for many anglers to have to sharpen their
hooks prior to using them, this practice was known as “Honing”. These
days with the introduction of chemically sharpened hooks we are lucky
enough to be able to use a hook straight out of the packet, this
coupled with improvements with metallurgy has evolved hooks that are
Sharp, fine gauge and very strong.
A hook that is light weight but still strong gives
the angler the ability to more naturally present their offering, this
increases the anglers catch rates.
While the Japanese prefer hooks with a flat eye, due
to a weight reduction of about 20% allowing them to more naturally
present their bait, us westerners however like our hooks with an eye.
The eye of the hook should be free of sharp edges, have no gaps on the
join and be of the correct size for the line you are using. If you wish
to fish with a small trace connecting to the hook, your eye should be
quite small, if you wish to fish with a double or heavy trace look for
a hook with a larger eye.
When you go to your tackle store don’t be frightened
by all the different hook sizes and styles. Hooks are sized with a
number 12 being on the smaller side of the scale while a number 12/0 is
on the larger size of the scale. There are only 2 things that you
really need to worry about. The first is the bait you are using, and
the second is the fish that you are chasing. For example: A Whiting
fisherman using worms for bait would probably use a size 4 long shank
hook because the Whiting has a long slender mouth and the bait is long
and slender.
A Snapper fisherman using squid heads for bait may
use 2 size 6/0 Octopus or Suicide hooks as the Snapper have a large
mouth and the angler is using a big bait. A Salmon or Tailor fisherman
using pilchards may choose a gang hook. See it’s simple, just match
your hook to your bait and fish. Trust me there is a hook to suit
everything.
From a conservation point please don’t use Stainless
steel hooks. These are horrible devices that stay with fish for years.
They simply don’t corrode, if you need an extra strong hook use a hook
with a high carbon component. There are arguments that say stainless
hooks are better for fish as they don’t decompose in the fish. These
arguments look at the imbedded hook as a style of harmless
piecing.
Sinkers
Sinkers are dictated by water depths, fish locations
and tidal movement. Sinkers are simple a piece of lead used to present
a bait at a determined depth. Sinkers are sized in numerical form, with
1 being smaller than 2.
If you require a sinker to present a bait in deep or
fast flowing water then you will need a large hydrodynamic sinker. You
may also need a larger sinker to aid in casting long distances.
Different sinker styles are produced to fish different marine surfaces.
Sinkers come in many different moulds and weights.
Picking a sinker can be easier than it looks. All you simply have to do
is look at it. If you take a ball sinker for example, you can tell just
by looking at it that it will roll along the bottom. Now look at a Star
sinker, this sucker is not designed to roll, its designed to hold to
bottom.
Here is a run down of some popular designs.
A Star Sinker is designed for use in the surf. Its
design enables itself to embed into the sand and hold the bottom. This
sinker is best used with a dropper rig.
Snapper Sinkers are designed once again for use with
dropper rigs. Snapper sinkers are very popular with reef fishermen as
they are less prone to snagging and designed to sink quickly to the
bottom.
Bomb sinkers are designed to let the bait roll
around the bottom and can be used by both shore and boat anglers. The
Swivel line attachment helps eliminate line twist and also gives the
angler the ability to fish with a running sinker, this is best done
with an easy rig.
Ball sinkers are round and designed to roll over the
seabed. They are great for anglers that want to present a bait on the
seabed and have it move and roll about the bottom.
Bean sinkers are like ball sinkers but they roll
less. Bean sinkers are more inclined to roll from side to side but not
forward and back.
Bug sinkers have a flat top and base and are
designed to sit on the seabed with minimal roll effect.
Barrel sinkers are long and thin and are commonly
used by anglers trawling baits and lures to get their presentations to
a desired depth. Barrel sinkers are very hydrodynamic and when used in
bait fishing provide minimal drag. Barrel sinkers will roll from side
to side, but they are a great option for running sinker rigs in fast
flowing water with smooth seabeds.
Spilt shot sinkers are designed to be clamped on to
the line and weigh down a bait or a float. They are normally very small
and are very popular with float fishermen. When using Spilt shot
sinkers don’t clamp them too tightly onto your line as this can damage
the line and cause you to lose your prized catch.
Sinkers are made of lead, so they are not exactly
the most environmentally friendly compound. In the near future some
waterways may ban the use of lead sinkers, as hunters have had lead shot banned for use in swamps
and waterways. This development may never happen though.
Tungsten is the newest fad in fishing sinkers in the
USA. Tungsten is better for the environment and has a higher density.
The higher density for tungsten gives the angler a better ability to
feel the bottom and distinguish a stick from a rock and weed from sand.
Fishing Line
Fishing line is a great topic in itself.
Monofilament or Mono line is a nylon line that will stretch
considerably prior breaking. Braided line is a fibrous line that has
virtually no stretch.
The advantage of braided line over mono line is the
fact that braided line has a smaller diameter, virtually no stretch
(aiding the angler in distinguishing bites and snags, and also helping
in hook setting) and is stronger for its line class and diameter than
mono. The disadvantages of braid are that it is very expensive, has a
reduced abrasion resistance and does not offer the same shock absorbing
qualities of mono. Also due to the material used in the construction of
braid and the fine diameter care must be taken in tying knots.
Braided line with all of its advantages is still not
suitable for game fishing as there is a reduction in abrasion
resistance and no stretch. With no stretch in the line there is no
shock absorbs ion to soften the impact of a strike and help hold the
hook in place. While braided lines are permitted by the IGFA the
breaking strain of the braid often over tests its rating due to the
fact that braid is rated to the breaking strength at the knot rather
than the main line.
Braided lines are great for lure and soft plastic
anglers as it gives them the ability to impart more action on the lure
and better detection for strikes and snags. Braided line is also a
great asset for anglers fishing deep and fast flowing water. The
reduced line diameter gives the angler the ability to fish with lighter
sinkers as the line has less water resistance. Also since the line has
little or no stretch bites are easily detected as the line will not
absorb such inputs.
When using braided lines you have to always use a
mono leader. This leader acts as a shock absorber as well as protection
against abrasion. The leader should be as transparent as possible. To
achieve this you should
use fluorocarbon monofilament, this material has the same
reflective index as water so it becomes close to invisible.
When choosing a fishing line you tend to get what
you pay for. If you plan on using your line only occasionally and your
not that serious purchase a cheaper line, if your going to use your
line often and are a
serious angler purchase a good quality line.
There are many different line characteristics.
Supple or soft lines are a preferred option of bait anglers as they
give the ability to more naturally present a bait. More rigid lines are
great for lure and soft plastic angles as they give the angler the
ability to more responsively work a lure and detect strikes on the
sink.
When un-tangling braided lines it is better to tease
a knot out rather than pull it out, if a knot is tightened in braided
line it can be virtually impossible to untangle.
Lures
Go into any tackle store and the hundreds of
different lures on display can be very confusing. Where do you start
and what do you look for.
Firstly lets think about what you want to fish for.
There is no point trying to catch a 1 kilogram fish on a 6 inch lure,
so if you are chasing little fish try little lures. Little lures will
catch both small and large fish. Now lets think about the fish we are
chasing, are they surface, mid-water or bottom feeders ?
If your fishing for Australian Salmon it’s a good
assumption that they will be feeding on the surface or mid water, so
you would choose a surface or mid water lure. Now if you were fishing
for a bottom feeder like Flathead you would choose a lure that is
fished on the bottom, lures like deep divers and soft plastics are
perfect for these applications.
Now what do the fish you are chasing eat? If your
chosen species eat yabbies a yabby or Crawfish lure is a good choice.
For example Yellow-belly eat Yabbies so a Yabby pattern is a good
choice. Now if your after a Trevally a baitfish style of lure is the
best choice.
When lure fishing here are a couple of great tips.
When fishing in clean water use natural colour lures, when you are
fishing in dirty water use bright colour lures. Match the lure colour
to the water. Also on bright days bright lures are best.
Lures are made of plastic, wood, metal and
fibreglass. Lures can also be divided into different categories.
Spoons: are metal lures shaped in an egg, oval or
rounded fish shape. Used for Trout, redfin and fresh water natives as
well as flathead, tailor, salmon and pike in the salt. Large spoons are
also very popular with Spanish Mackerel and Kingfish anglers.
Spinners: Are lures with a rotating metal or plastic
blade(s) that spin around a central metal shaft. While most spinners
are small some larger models are made for Murray Cod. Spinners are
normally small and very effective on all fresh water Natives as well as
trout and Redfin. Recently Spinner Baits have come onto the Australian
scene. Spinner Baits originated in the United States and are very
popular with their Bass fishery. A Spinner Bait is a V shaped lure with
a rotating blade and a lead headed jig covered with feathers, plastic
or a soft Plastic lure. Spinner Baits are very effective on all
Australian freshwater native fish in both tropical and southern waters.
Slices: Are metal lures angularly cut out of lengths
hexangular, square or circular metal rods. Slices are predominately
used by salt water anglers and are designed to be retrieved at high
speed. Slices are very productive on Tuna, Salmon, Tailor, Kingfish and
Mackerel.
Lead Lures/ Slugs: Slugs are made out of a lead
alloy or lead and are pencil or Knife shaped. Slugs are most effective
when they are cast and retrieved at high speed. Lead slugs are designed
to imitate a small fleeing baitfish. Lead slugs are predominantly used
by anglers chasing Tuna, Mackerel, Queen fish, Salmon and most other
pelagics. The key to success with lead slugs is matching the size of
your lure with the size of the baitfish the fish are feeding on.
Jigs: While jigs were traditionally just oversized
lead slugs, now days jigs represent a number of different forms. Forms
of jigs include lead headed flies, lead-headed soft plastics and also
the traditional form of oversize lead slugs. Jigs can have a number of
different hook combinations from single hooks to trebles. Jigs can
range in size from just a few grams right through to half a kilogram.
While jigs were once traditionally used only in deep water, today with
the increasing range and diversity of styles there is a jig to suit
nearly every popular angling species. If a suitable jig is moved in the
correct region in the water column very exciting fishing is possible.
As a tip vary your action and retrieves to find the most popular for
the day.
Squid Jigs are a type of jig that is specifically
designed to catch squid. There are two distinct types of Squid Jigs.
The first type is the Bait style squid jig. This jig is characterised
by a long steel shaft that that has a set or two of very sharp barb
less prongs. A whole fish bait of a Whiting or pilchard is threaded
onto the shaft. The second style of squid jig is the Yo-Zuri or prawn
imitation jig. These jigs are very popular with squid anglers and are
made out of cloth, wood or plastic. Squid jigs range in size from one
inch through to six inches.
Bait Jigs or flasher rigs are multiple hooked rigs
dressed with a combination of luminous beads, tinsel, feathers, cloth
and/ or soft plastic lures. While flasher rigs are typically used to
capture bait fish such as Mackerel, Herring and Trevally, they are also
popular in larger sizes for larger off shore reef species including
snapper, morwong and trumpeter.
Plugs: Are deep-bodied diving lures with a bib that
controls the lures action as well as the lures diving depth. Usually of
timber or plastic construction, Plugs are sometimes call Crank-baits.
The term Crank-bait refers to the action in which the lure is
retrieved, the lure is literally cranked through the water with the
reel. Plugs are productive and popular on all Australian freshwater and
estuarine species including Barramundi, Cod, Bream, Saratoga, Perch,
Trout, Flathead and Bass.
Minnows: Are a timber or plastic slim baitfish
profile lure that also has a bib. As with Plugs the bib on the Minnows
also control the lures depth and action. Minnows are designed to
imitate baitfish like mullet, pilchards, sardines, white-bait,
blue-bait and mackerel. Certain Minnows are designed to be retrieved in
a jerking motion. These lures are popularly called Jerk-baits. Minnows
vary in size from just a couple of centimetres right through to models
exceeding 30 centimetres. Minnows in their respective sizes will catch
nearly every popular Australian species.
Poppers: Are surface lures that are made out of wood
or plastic. There are many different types of poppers including
fizzers, bloopers and chuggers. Poppers are designed to imitate a
startled or injured bait fish on the surface of the water. Typically a
floating lure with a concave, flat or scooped head large poppers are
predominately used in the tropical waters while smaller models are
popular with fresh water native anglers.
Lipless Crank-baits: Are deep bodied lures that
typically have a loud internal rattle. Lipless crank-baits have no bib
and get their action from the flat section on top of the lures head.
Lipless Crankbaits are very successful when used on estuarine and
freshwater species.
Trolling/ Kona Heads: Often called locally Pakula
style lures, Trolling Heads are made out of metal, fibreglass and resin
and have a skirt made out of plastic, tinsel or vinyl. These lures are
used in game fishing and regularly catch Bill fish, Tuna, Mackerel,
Wahoo and King Fish.
Soft Plastics: Are in all essence artificial baits.
Typically plastic in construction and attached to the line by a jig
head Soft Plastics have revolutionised Australian fishing as we know
it. There are two parts to a Soft Plastic and these are the Tail and
the Jig head/ Hook. The tail is the part of the lure that gives lure
its action. The tail of a soft plastic is at times scented and even in
some cases completely biodegradable. While the tail controls the action
the Jig head and Hook control the lures position in the water column
and sink rate. Soft Plastics are typically sold in 2 parts, the Jig Head
and the Tails. This is a great advantage to the angler as they can use
the same Jig Head on different Tails and vice versa. Soft Plastics also
can represent a great value for money as you get a number of tails and
jig heads per packet. It should also be advised that when you fish with
Soft Plastics you will get your best results when you angle in a
fashion that is a combination of Bait and Lure fishing. Soft Plastics
will catch species from Tarpon to Tuna and salmon to Sailfish.
Traces and leaders
Traces and leaders are used as shock absorbers,
abrasion protection and main line protection.
Monofilament or Mono leaders should feature
Fluorocarbon co-polymer construction, high abrasion resistance, high
knot or crimp strength and high tensile strength.
Mono leaders should be used when fishing with
braided line, this gives the angler extra abrasion resistance and shock
protection. A leader should be used when ever an angler has a hook
attached. This gives main line protection, more natural bait and lure presentation
as well as shock protection. Mono leader material is a better choice
over a wire leader as Mono leaders give a more natural presentation,
are less visible and more shock absorbent. Wire leaders should be used
when chasing Toothy critters like sharks and Mackerel. While coated
multiple strand wire is normally the choice of anglers there are
occasions when an angler will require a thinner gauge wire. Single
strand wire is often used by anglers live baiting for mackerel.
Swivels, Snaps, Keels, Rings and Ezi Rigs
Swivels are used for a
number of functions. The primary function of a swivel is to prevent
line twist as a result of a rotating bait, lure or rig. Swivels are
also used as a joining mechanism to join main line to leader, and as a
separator and restrictor to stop sinkers from moving on to a rig or too
far up the main line.
Swivels are sized the
same as hooks with 14 being the smaller end of the scale and 4/0 being
the upper end of the scale.
There are a number of
different types of swivels. Types include Barrel, Torpedo, Box, Crane,
Snap swivels and 3-Way swivels.
Barrel swivels are the
cheapest and most popular swivels. Barrel swivels are not the most
effective in reducing line twist but they are a very effective
component when used in a running sinker rig, where the swivel is used
as a separator and joiner. Barrel swivels come in two colours, Brass
and Black. The brass are fine in most applications but if you are
fishing in areas where fish like Barracouta, Barracuda, Mackerel and
other toothy predators live, a black swivel is the smart choice. The
reason behind this is the fact that a shinny brass swivel can look like
a baitfish and attract the unwanted attention of hungry toothy critters
resulting in bite-offs and lost fish. Black swivels are very useful in
clear water and when targeting shy fish, this is once again due to the
minimum amount of “flash” that they produce.
Box swivels are similar
to Barrel swivels but the box swivel is typically stronger than the
Barrel swivel.
Crane Swivels are
stronger, smaller and more effective than Barrel swivels. The only
disadvantage to the Crane swivel is the fact that it more expensive
than the Barrel swivels.
Torpedo swivels are
typically used in Game fishing and heavy-duty applications. Torpedo
swivels turn more freely than other swivels of a similar size and come
in
sizes ranging from three
hundred pounds up to one thousand pounds.
3-Way swivels are great
in dropper style rigs. 3-Way swivels are great for preventing a dropper
twisting around the main line. The reason behind this is the 3-Way
swivel’s ability to enable unbalanced bait to spin in the water and
during casting. The major downfall of a 3-way swivel is the possibility
of the swivel arm breaking under pressure due to metal fatigue.
Snap swivels are mainly
used by lure anglers as the Snap mechanism gives the angler the ability
to quickly change lures while not having to re-tie on the lure. Snap
swivels do reduce the action of a lure and its buoyancy. Snap swivels
are great for offshore anglers frequently changing rigs. I personally
use Snap swivels in a dropper or paternoster rig to attach sinkers in
fishing locations where there is a large amount of tidal flow. Snap
swivels also come in Black and Brass finishes, and colour selection is
the same as that used for Barrel swivels.
To reduce line twist
when trawling some anglers employ Keels in association with
swivels. For heavy-duty
salt water applications heavy lead keel sinkers are employed where in
fresh water applications like light spinning and slow trawling for
trout, clear plastic or celluloid keels are used. Keels are not
required for all trawling and spinning applications but should be
considered when fishing with free spinning lures.
There are two types of
Rings, Brass rings and Split rings. Brass rings are used in much the
same ways as Barrel swivels. The advantage of Brass rings over Barrel
swivel is the rings lighter and stronger for its size. This gives the
angler the ability to more naturally present baits. Split rings are
made of steel and are used to attach hooks to lures.
Ezy-Rigs are a piece of
tackle consisting of a piece of plastic tubing and a Snap clip.
Ezy-Rigs are used in
running sinker rigs and give the angler the ability to change sinkers
regularly. Ezy-Rigs come in 2 sizes, small or large and 2 colours Blue
or Red. There are many imitations of Ezy-Rigs on the market these days
they come in a range of sizes and colours, they are sure to do the job,
but the original is always the best.
Floats
Floats come in many
shapes and sizes and are used in many fishing situations. Floats are
typically used to suspend a bait or baits in a certain area in the
water column and indicate to the angler indications of a bite. Floats
can be fix or running, clear or coloured, made of Plastic, wood, cork,
foam or glass. Most floats are high visibility on the top for angler
recognition and low visibility or white on the base for camouflage.
When choosing a float
think about the application that you are going to use it for. If your
fishing for Mullet or Luderick in calm waters you would probably use a
Quill float. Now if you were fishing for these species in more turbid
waters you would use a heavier pencil float. If you require a float for
use in very clear water for catching very timid fish say trout for
example, you would use a bubble float. Bubble floats are great because
you determine their buoyancy by inserting water into the bubble, this
lets the angler present the bait as naturally as possible. If your rock
fishing and casting big baits you would use a Torpedo float.
You have to consider the
following when choosing a float, Size of fish targeted, size of bait,
Casting characteristics, environment being fished, angler visibility
required, running or fixed rigging and the advantages of fish attracting
devices like burley cages and flashing devices.
As a tip if you want to
rig a float in the running style and don’t want to use a heavy sinker
as a stopper try tying a piece of wool where you require the stopper.
Many anglers find that their line sinks and creates a bow of line
between the rod and the float. This bow of line reduces hook-up rates
as it reduces strike time. One way of reducing or eliminating this line
bow is to apply Silicon or Vaseline to your main line.
Nets, gaffs, bats.
Nets and gaffs are used
to land fish.
Gaffs are primarily used on fish that are intended
for the table. Fish should be gaffed in the head or shoulder region,
this reduces the damage to the edible fish flesh. Gaffs come in a
variety of sizes and are typically designed for landing larger fish.
The size of the gaff required is dictated by the size of the fish
targeted. For fish that roll and thrash like sharks Flying Gaffs (Gaffs
with detachable barbed hooks) are best suited.
Gaffs can also be used in handling fish destined for
released. If you intend to release a fish gaff the fish in the mouth
there is very minimal damage done to fish as long as you support the
fish’s weight as you lift it.
A quality Gaff should have a strong handle, sharp
stainless steel barb less hook, hook cover and a quality handle grip.
Nets and the type employed are once again dictated
by the fish that you are targeting. All nets should be of sturdy
construction and furnished by a quality mesh. It is essential to match
your mesh dimensions with the fish that you are anticipating on
landing. You can look very silly if you fish slips through your net’s
mesh and escapes. Nets are a more fish friendly way of landing your
catch, this is epically true if your intending to release your fish.
For anglers primarily intending to release their fish a net from the
Environet range should be considered. Environet are specifically
designed for catch and release fishing. Environets reduce the damage to
the fish’s protective coat of slime, thus reducing the stress levels on
the fish and increasing the fish’s chance of survival.
There are many features to look for when choosing a
net. Net features include telescopic handles, collapsible heads, mesh
type, mesh gauge, grips and handle lengths. When selecting your net
make sure that you choose a net that is durable enough for your chosen
application. Also in is vital to check the condition of your net prior
to each fishing expedition, there would be nothing worse than loosing
your catch of a life time due to a failure in your landing equipment.
Tip: Always net your fish head first and lead the
fish to the net. Squid on the other hand should be netted from behind.
Bats are used to kill a fish and prevent the fish
from suffering and doing damage to the boat. Bats are normally made out
of aluminium or wood and are in the shape of a base ball bat. They are
very effective for pacifying large fish quickly.
Fish Finders/ Depth Sounders
Depth Sounders have many applications including
monitoring water depth, temperature, bottom structure, sea bed
composition and fish locations. Good sounders offer high definition
images/pixel count, water temperature readings, depth readings, grey
line (a measure of the density of the sea bed), sensitivity control,
interference reduction, split screen display, zoom, speed display, back
light and even GPS input options.
Pixels are the measure of how many part a screen is
divided into to. The higher the pixel count the higher the display
definition.
For shallow water operations a frequency of 200Khz
is best, where deep water applications require a frequency of 50Khz.
With a lower frequency you obtain deeper penetration but your target
separation suffers.
The more power that a unit has the greater the depth
separation obtainable.
Sounders are very much horses for courses. If you
are going to use your sounder a lot then purchase a high quality model,
if your only going to use one occasionally then get a lesser model. The
key to a sounder is to get the best one for your requirements. There is
no point in having features that you are never going to use. Sometimes
a basic sounder may be all that you require. Simple features such as
Grey line, 200Khz frequency, water temperature, sensitivity control,
depth readings and zoom are all the features many anglers require.
Tackle Bags and boxes.
To bag it or to box it is the new question. In the
past everybody has had a tackle box. These boxes were hauled across the
country in search of the fish and fishing memory of a lifetime. Your
typical tackle box was like a trophy cabinet furnished with all of your
favourite lures and accessories, it had fresh and saltwater gear as
well as everything else you owned. Tackle boxes can be very cumbersome.
A quality tackle box should be waterproof, have a quality handle, quality-locking
device and be of suitable internal design to suite your needs. Tackle
boxes have many different internal designs, including multiple trays,
removable trays, adjustable shelves, adjustable compartments and
internal removable storage boxes.
Personally I prefer tackle bags. My reason behind
this preference is the simple fact that the tackle bag is a very
versatile item. A tackle bag is a Shoulder bag or backpack style of bag
that has many different features. Tackle bags use storage boxes and plastic
sleaves to store your chosen tackle for the trip. I have many storage
boxes all sorted into relevant categories, Trout, Salt water,
Freshwater, Tropical, Surf and Trawling are just some of my categories.
I love the fact that I grab my bag, chuck in the relevant storage
boxes, a jacket, hat, sunscreen and other supplies and it is all in one
neat easily carried bag. This is a huge advantage if your hiking/
walking to your chosen location or even if you storage space is
limited.
A quality tackle bag should be very study in
construction, have quality shoulder straps, heavy duty zips, and
compartments big enough to store your storage boxes. Features of tackle
bags can include binder rings to store plastic pockets, removable
sections, phone, map and GPS storage units waterproof and cooler
compartments and even inbuilt seats.
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